A Windy Coast And A Breath Of Fresh Air

 

Magical Essaouira

Mystical and magical Essaouira, history breathes hauntingly through the streets of this town. Dark, small alleys and the many arches whisper tales of times long gone by and it only needs a little imagination to visualise the caravan trade from sub-Saharan Africa that once arrived in this eighteenth century port.

Essaouira has inherited a wonderful blend of cultural influences from the diverse ethnical groups that have inhabited the town. The Arabs, Berbers, Jews, Africans and Europeans have all contributed to the rich heritage of old traditions and the artistic spirit of this town.

Essaouira is one of the most photogenic towns of Morocco, colourful, dramatic, enchanting and always ready for the perfect pose! 

The Beautiful Beach of Essaouira

Like I wrote in my previous post we spent a few days in Essaouira last week. The journey from Marrakech to Essaouira is not so spectacular. The road is at present under construction making the journey a very unpleasant, wobbly and long ride. As for scenery there isn’t that much to see unless you like endless plains and there are no attractive towns of villages on the route. For me it is a wonderful journey to sit back an relax the senses while my spouse manoeuvres the car on and beside the sandy road avoiding gaping gaps and trucks coming from the other direction.





The beach in Essaouira stretches south endlessly and even though the town has become a popular tourist attraction it is still possible to find yourself walking alone along the breakers. The town itself has the magical ability to make you forget about the rest of the world but during a walk on its beach you seem to become weightless until you even forget about yourself for a while





Previous post about Essouaira

Aphrodisiac in Essaouira

A wonderful thing about living in Morocco is that we get to discover places without the rush to see as much as we can in a short lapse of time. There is always an opportunity to return and explore more or experience again and again and again whatever we find enjoyable.

Something very enjoyable in Essaouira is a candlelight dinner in Restaurant Laayoune. Almost each visit to Essaouira takes us to this little restaurant located in one of the small streets in the old town. They serve a delicious tagine pil pil which is a spicy prawn dish flavoured with garlic and a typical Essaouirian mix of spices.

Only recently I learned that this particular dish is locally reputed for its aphrodisiac properties. The combination of prawns with these specific spices apparently stimulates the vigour of men. It is presumed to be general knowledge and often leads to chuckling and subtle jokes between men.

A pirate's nest

Also beyond Marrakech but to the west at the Atlantic coast is Essaouira. It is definitely Morocco's most dreamy town with a very distinctive sleepy feel in the air. The town is a melting pot of Portuguese, French, Arabic and Berber architecture and traditions. Essaouira invites you to forget about the world and you may even lose your daily troubles and cares while the town absorbs you into its laid-back lifestyle.

There is something magical about Essaouira as it lures you into a twilight zone somewhere between reality and fantasy. During the day as the sun shines high above the tall white houses in the medina with their indigo blue doors and shutters the town appears peaceful and fully engaged with its famous handcraft production of marquetry boxes and furniture carved from the thuya tree. At nightfall when everyone hurries home, the narrow dark alleys seem to whisper tales about the pirates who once found their refuge in the town.

We are currently in Essaouira to discuss the woodwork of our guesthouse with an old friend who is a carpenter. We have rented a charming little house in the medina just a few paces away from the main square and a short walk to the beach. There are many beautiful hotels and guesthouses in the medina but to rent a house or apartment in the old town is easy, often much cheaper and a great experience.

This evening we shopped around the fish and vegetable market, bought our favourite spices and dropped everything off at a small locality where they cook the tagine of your desire to take home. In Morocco this cooking service is commonly used as it is by far cheaper than eating in a restaurant and often much better as the ingredients of your choice are cooked in the traditional ceramic tagines.